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Coups de coeur Sérénissime baie d'Along
Coups de coeur Sérénissime baie d'Along
| Sérénissime baie d'Along |
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| Coup de cœur | |||
| Écrit par Vanessa | |||
| Mardi, 13 Avril 2010 05:33 | |||
 Y aller ou ne pas y aller ? La baie d'Along, le site le plus visité au Vietnam, la destination phare des tours operateurs en Asie du Sud-est. Là où des cohortes de touristes se précipitent dans les centaines de jonques en partance pour le golfe du Tonkin. Pensez bien, les Saperliplanautes n'ont pas manqué de s'interroger. Notamment à la lecture des récits de bloggeurs et des voyageurs rencontrés sur la route. Finalement, la curiosité, l'irrépressible envie de voir ces pitons rocheux rendus célèbres par de nombreux films, dont Indochine, l'ont emporté.Nous posons nos sacs chez Simone, notre hôte, qui habite la ville voisine. Hon Gai est une cité grise et boueuse, un peu triste par ce temps humide, mais bouillonnante de vie. Les habitants, les commerçants nous accueillent avec spontanéité. Ici, pas de touristes, assurément. Au petit restaurant d'à côté, on nous sort les billets du tiroir pour nous faire comprendre le prix des plats. Au marché, la seule vendeuse maîtrisant un peu l'anglais, vole à notre secours pour acheter des avocats. De l'autre coté du pont, Bai Chai n'a plus rien d'une ville. Face à l'enfilade d'hôtels verticaux et impersonnels, s'avance le port où embarquent les jonques pour la baie d'Along. Simone nous a réservé un bateau en précisant aux matelots que nous souhaitions emprunter les chemins de traverse. Avec notre ami Hervé, venu de France, nous quittons le port tôt le matin, à une heure où la masse des bateaux agglutinés dorment encore. Pas seuls sur la “route” de la baie, pour autant. On y croise des groupes de touristes de retour d'une nuit sur l'eau, des Vietnamiens en goguette... Et puis, après quelques heures de navigation, c'est le silence. Nous sommes seuls sur notre spacieuse embarcation, en admiration devant ces pitons rocheux d'une beauté extrême. En arrière-plan, les “pains de sucre” disparaissent sous la brume en ce jour d'avril privé de soleil. Ajoutant ainsi une part de mystère dans un paysage déjà féérique. On se faufile au milieu de ces îles karstiques et îlots rocheux innombrables (il y en a près de 2000 dans toute la baie) et on croise quelques villages flottants de pêcheurs. Seul le chant des oiseaux enfouis sous une dense végétation nous parvient de temps en temps. Sentiment de sérénité absolu. Des têtes de dragon à la proue des bateaux rappellent la légende de la baie de “Ha Long”. On raconte que les coups de queue d'un dragon auraient façonné ces gigantesques pitons rocheux. Le niveau de la mer se serait ensuite brusquement élevé lorsque cet être merveilleux dans la croyance vietnamienne, se serait retiré. En fait, les géologues expliquent que ce site était en haute mer à l'époque préhistorique. Une couche de sédiments s'est formée et a été fracturée par les mouvements de la croûte terrestre. La mer s'est ensuite retirée, exposant le site à l'action de l'érosion. La pluie et les rivières ont creusé de nombreuses grottes. Inscrit au patrimoine mondial de l'Unesco depuis 1994, la baie d'Along n'en est pas moins en danger. La mer est extrêmement polluée, jonchée de déchets, et on ne voit pas le moindre signe de protection du site. Ecoeurant ! Nous rentrons au port en soirée, et goûtons la saveur des petits plats de Simone, en imaginant ceux des groupes de touristes piégés sur un même site pour une nuit vendue comme... unique. Ouf ! On a « fait » la baie d'Along et on n'a pas été déçus.
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